On the 23^rd December 2018, a text message from Djerba winged its way onto my mobile, announcing the birth of four baby hedgehogs! Quelle surprise!    The pathetic bundle of prickles that I had rescued from a wire cage in Houmet Souk nearly three years ago and named Herbie, has turned out to be a flirtatious Mademoiselle….. What a sweet story, and to think this adorable creature found romance, leading to motherhood, in the bountiful fruit orchards owned by her kind guardian Mohamed, who very nobly agreed to take this orphan under his wing.  

Well that got our Christmas celebrations off to an enchanting start, and then on Christmas Eve, having treated ourselves to a traditional festive lunch at Joe Allen,  we opened our present from my niece. Guess what, four stoneware hedgehog nesting bowls!  Talk about serendipity – the perfect excuse to open a bottle of Prosecco.

We flew LHR > Tunis on 25^th December.  Flight TU791 was packed.  On the 27th, Belgacem, our companionable chauffeur, collected us from the Hotel Africa and drove us down south to Douz, stopping for lunch in Kairouan.  We did the same seven hour drive for our return trip to Tunis, this time stopping off at  El Jem, famous for its Roman Amphitheatre. The car journey was an experiment, but one that we will repeat, as it cuts out the hassle of airports, airport transfers, finding a bagagiste, delayed internal flights, overnight stays in Tozeur or Djerba, followed by a long drive to our final destination, Douz.  

Now to news from the desert, which travels fast amongst the Bedouin, who are never without their mobile phones.  Just before Belgacem dropped us off at The Hotel Sahara Douz, his phone rang.  

It was Adel – on 26^th December, his wife Najet had given birth to their third child in Kebili Hospital, a baby boy named Naeem. Mother and child were now safely back home. It was agreed there and then that I would visit the Saoud Family the following evening.  

I was greeted by a crowd of excited children – excited at having a brand new baby in their midst, and excited at the prospect  of  chocolate and sweeties that I would shortly be handing over to Fatma, the Grand Bedouin Matriarch of the Saoud clan, for her to divide fairly amongst the dozen or more children.  I’d brought lots of chocolate – in Spring/Autumn this is not possible as it melts, but in December it travels well and chocolate is the hugest treat. “Diana, Diana” they cried in unison as I stepped out of Belgacem’s estate car.  It is all too easy to lose count of the many cousins, and I make sure to swot up on the names written in my journal before each visit.  

Khairi aged 5, and  Arifif aged 2½,  Naeem’s brother and sister, took me by the hand, and  led me into their brightly lit house. So affectionate, but perhaps an element of cupboard love, I wonder?!!  We stepped into the hallway, and took off our shoes.  A beaming Adel kissed me on both cheeks before escorting me into the living room where a radiant Najet held court, resplendent on a raised platform large enough for to her to rest and sleep in comfort, cosy fluffy blankets at her fingertips.  Alongside her, beneath a triangular framework of wood draped in muslin and cotton, lay her baby, hidden from view in his very own miniature Bedouin tent.  Adel could not contain himself any longer, and gently lifted the drapes to reveal his tiny son wrapped in swaddling clothes.  

Najet looked so very beautiful. I was touched by the genuine warmth of her welcome. Two smiling ladies, one her mother Selma, were sitting on the floor.  Children of all ages came running into the room, eager to see the presents I had given to Khairi and Arifif.  In a matter of moments, pieces of jigsaw were scattered all over the matting, bubbles blown into the air.  Children are the epicentre of Bedouin life, with everything and everyone revolving around them.  To me, the evening represented a scene for real from the Nativity: a newly born babe, a proud but humbled mother and father, visitors bearing gifts. And outside, in the stillness of the silent starry night, slept sheep, goats, chickens, rabbits, donkeys, mules and my camel Zeydoun.

I arranged with Adel that we would spend two days in the desert riding Zeydoun, that we would stay within sight of Sabria, and that I would return to my hotel at night.  This routine worked well all ways round.  Adel was close to his family; we did not require an extra camel to carry a tent; we avoided having to endure a bitterly cold night out in the open; and most importantly of all, it gave Khairi the opportunity to join us on his very first camel safari with a tourist, which I have named Le Petit Circuit Khairi!  

Khairi is an enthusiastic participant: handing me my rucksack; helping to saddle Zeydoun; keeping up with his Baba* (Father*) and Zeydoun, only pausing to tie up his bootlaces which kept coming undone.  For the last half hour before we stopped for a very simple lunch, he was lifted on to the camel, where he sat in front of me, relishing every  single second!  I wonder if the tradition of working with camels will still be part of his life when he reaches adulthood.  He is as bright as a button, likewise his sister Arifif who adores to dance and craves cuddles.  Such happy, unspoilt children.  

Khairi helped his Baba gather wood for the fire at lunchtime, and tucked into the bread that had been baked in the ashes, first dipping the warm chunks into a bowl of golden olive oil.  Simply scrummy. 

Under a cloudless blue sky and warm sunshine, we padded back to Sabria, Khairi sitting in front of me on Zeydoun, doing his best  to hold on to the front of the saddle.  He was having difficulty in keeping his eyes open.  The rhythm of the camel stride can have a soporific effect on the rider, especially after a long and exciting day in the open air.  I put my arms firmly around the tired little cameleer –  it’s a mighty long way up astride Zeydoun, and a mighty long way down if you were to fall!

Before I bade the Saoud Family farewell, Adel showed me their new washing machine. This will make Najet’s life much easier, and lovely for Najet to know that her Mother will stay with her for the forty days following Naeem’s birth.  

Geoffrey and I celebrated New Year’s Eve dancing the night away at The Hotel Sahara Douz.  On New Year’s Day, we raised a glass to Zeydoun – it was ten years ago to the day that I bought my beloved camel. May we both be allowed to grow old together………………..